Mountaineering

While trekking is the primary focus of this website, here are some remarks on mountaineering

North Slope (Standard Route)

Ambitious trekkers may climb all the way to the 5,396-meter summit of Haba Snow Mountain (哈巴雪山). The easiest route lies on the north side of the mountain. The glacier begins at around 5,000 meters. Every year, several thousand attempt this climb, starting from Haba Village (哈巴村). Hiring a guide is the norm on the mountain.

Base Camp (大本营), conveniently situated at 4,100 meters near treeeline, provides rustic dormitory lodging. For the five-hour hike up from Haba Village, see the Base Camp Route (大本营路线). Trekkers who do not plan to reach the top are welcome to stay. Black Lake (黑海) is a two-hour hike away.

The round-trip climb from Base Camp to the summit takes 6 to 12 hours, depending on weather and the climber’s physical condition and level of acclimatization. For general information about the summit climb, read Helen Vikmane’s helpful article. For full details of the ascent route, check out Ryder Stroud’s in-depth guide.

South Ridge

The South Ridge is a major feature of Haba Snow Mountain and extends for 10 kilometers above an elevation of 4,000 meters. The ridge boasts numerous spires, pinnacles and sub-summits before dropping down to foothills near Naxi Guest House (纳西雅阁客栈). No trekking routes cross over or near the ridge, but mining roads high on the eastern slope provide access for expert mountaineers.

West Face

The easy north slope ascent route may attract novice mountaineers, but the 1000-meter West Face will always remain a playground for experienced alpinists.

East Face

The remote East Face of Haba Snow Mountain presents a mixture of icy couloirs, rock spires, and soaring walls. With the 4,180-meter Divide Pass (垭口分界线) as an access point, high-altitude climbing routes await exploration. One of the local names for the pass is Yang Ma Zi (羊马子, meaning Sheep Horse Pass).

In the photo, note the track along the base of the East Face. That is a pipe collecting water for Ennu Village, deep down in the valley east of the peak.