North Slope (Standard Route)
Ambitious trekkers may climb all the way to the 5,396-meter summit of Haba Snow Mountain (哈巴雪山). The easiest route lies on the north side of the mountain. The glacier begins at around 5,000 meters. Every year, several thousand attempt this climb, starting from Haba Village (哈巴村). Hiring a guide is the norm on the mountain.
The round-trip climb from Base Camp to the summit takes 6 to 12 hours, depending on weather and the climber’s physical condition and level of acclimatization. For general information about the summit climb, read Helen Vikmane’s helpful article. For full details of the ascent route, check out Ryder Stroud’s in-depth guide.
The South Ridge is a major feature of Haba Snow Mountain and extends for 10 kilometers above an elevation of 4,000 meters. The ridge boasts numerous spires, pinnacles and sub-summits before dropping down to foothills near Naxi Guest House (纳西雅阁客栈). No trekking routes cross over or near the ridge, but mining roads high on the eastern slope provide access for expert mountaineers.
The easy north slope ascent route may attract novice mountaineers, but the 1000-meter West Face will always remain a playground for experienced alpinists.
The remote East Face of Haba Snow Mountain presents a mixture of icy couloirs, rock spires, and soaring walls. With the 4,180-meter Divide Pass (垭口分界线) as an access point, high-altitude climbing routes await exploration. Note the animal track along the base of the East Face.